Publications

Our publications span a range of textile-related areas and include papers, journal articles and presentations.

Hosted conferences

Shapeshifting: A Conference on Transformative Paradigms of Fashion and Textile Design

Editors: Frances Joseph, Mandy Smith, Miranda Smitheram and Jan Hamon

ISBN: 978-1-927184-27-1
http://aut.researchgateway.ac.nz/handle/10292/8553

This publication presents 30 selected papers developed from an initial 47 presentations made at the Shapeshifting Conference held in Auckland in April 2014. The conference explored transformative paradigms in fashion and textile design through four thematic frameworks including Ambiguous & Automated Forms; Surface & Structural Transformations; The Fashion System & The Ephemeral; and Transformational Strategies. Shapeshifting, as a process of change and responsive agency is considered in these papers as a concern with cultures of transformation, navigations of the social and technological and the transversal hacker who unpicks and revises in order to contest what is current and deliver our future.

All 30 papers selected for publication were double blind peer reviewed by an international panel of fashion and textile experts and academic reviewers. The publication has been produced by the Textile and Design Laboratory and Colab at the Auckland University of Technology, February 2015.

Individual TDL Researcher Publications

  • Li, E., Lin, X., Seet, B. -C., Joseph, F., & Neville, J. (2019). Low Profile and Low Cost Textile Smart Mat for Step Pressure Sensing and Position Mapping. In IEEE International Instrumentation and Measurement Technology Conference. Auckland: IEEE. Retrieved from http://imtc.ieee-ims.org/
  • Smitheram, M. (2019). Kotahi te Wairua: motion capture and digital design intersections in indigenous contemporary dance. In MODE: Motion Design Education Summit 2019 Conference Proceedings Vol. Interplay (pp. 181-187). Wellington: Routledge
  • Joseph, F. (2018). Extending Antipodean Textility. In Knitting the Gap: Textiles meets Architecture meets Textiles. Nottingham: ArchInTex Network. Retrieved from https://www.ntu.ac.uk/aboutus/events/events/2018/12/knitting-the-gap-textiles-meets architecture-meets-textiles
  • Joseph, F., & Smitheram, M. (2018). Addressing Place. In DESIGNA 2018 Territory Programme and Book of Abstracts (pp. 38). Covihlã: Unidade de Investigação, LABCOM. IFP. Universidade de Beira Interior. Retrieved from http://www.designa.ubi.pt/ficheiros/D2018%20BA%20miolo.pdf
  • Lin, X., Seet, B. -C., Joseph, F., & Li, E. (2018). Flexible Fractal Electromagnetic Bandgap for Millimeter-Wave Wearable Antennas. IEEE Antennas and Wireless Propagation Letters, 17(7). doi:10.1109/LAWP.2018.
  • Lin, X., Seet, B. -C., & Joseph, F. (2018). Wearable Humidity Sensing Antenna for BAN Applications over 5G Networks. In 2018 IEEE 19th Wireless and Microwave Technology Conference (WAMICON) (pp. 5 pages). Sand Key, FL: IEEE. doi:10.1109/WAMICON.2018.8396055
  • Lin, X., Seet, B. -C., & Joseph, F. (2018). Accuracy of Dielectric Material Characterization at Millimeter-wave. In 2018 7th IEEE Asia-Pacific Conference on Antennas and propagation (APCAP) Auckland.  Retrieved from http://www.apcap2018.org/Images/apcap2018-programbooklet.pdf
  • Cleveland, D. (2018). Transformational Cloth: Weaving the Undervalued Threads of Textile Waste into a Value Added Change Model. [PhD Thesis]. Auckland University of Technology.http://hdl.handle.net/10292/12002
  • Joseph, F; Smitheram, M; Fisher, H; Stevens, C; Cleveland, D. (2017). Digital Materiality, Embodied Practices and Fashionable Interactions in the Design of Soft Wearable Technologies. The International Journal of Design, special issue ‘Wearable and Fashionable Futures’.
  • Smitheram, M. (2016). Hybrid Materialities: A Fashion Designer’s Material Approach through 3D Processes. Journal of Creative Technologies, special edition. (Publication pending)
  • Joseph, F; Smitheram, M; Kalyanji, J. (2016). Fluid Materialities: Physical and digital modes of textile making. Making Futures Journal, Vol
  • Smitheram, M. (2016). Haptic acts of making: a surface imaging design practice using digital and virtual tools. Making Futures Journal, Vol 4
  • Moore R, Smith A. The Transference of Craft to Digital Knowledge through the Medium of Knitted Textiles. Making Futures 4, Plymouth, UK, Journal Editor: Ferris M. To be Published 2016.
  • McClaren, R., Joseph F., Baguely, C., Taylor D.  A review of e-textiles in neurological rehabilitation: How close are we?  2016 Journal of NeuroEngineering and Rehabilitation Vol 13 issue 1. 59/13
  • Lin X, Seet B-C. and Joseph F.  Fine-pitch surface component mounting on screen-printed fabric circuits.  Electronics Letters Volume 52 Issue 12. 2016 pp1032-1034.
    http://ieeexplore.ieee.org/xpls/abs_all.jsp?arnumber=7481023
  • X. Lin, B-C Seet. Linear Wide-range Textile Pressure Sensor Integrally Embedded in Regular Fabric.  IEEE Sensors Journal, USA, Vol. 15, No. 10, 2015.
  • Joseph, F., Smitheram, M. and Kalyanji, J.  Fluid Materialities:  Physical and digital modes of textile making.  Making Futures Online Journal 4th edition (pending).  http://makingfutures.plymouthart.ac.uk/
  • Otter S., Rome K., Ihaka B., South A., Smith M., Gupta A., Joseph F. and Heslop P. Protective socks for people with diabetes: A systematic review and narrative analysis. Journal of Foot and Ankle Research 8:9 2015
  • Smith A.  Spark Lab Future Fashion Event. Auckland  Publisher URL
  • Smith A.E, and Finn A.  Built for niche: Rethinking the role of manufacturing in developing designer fashion in New Zealand. International Journal of Fashion Studies 2(1):29-42 01 Apr 2015.  Publisher URL
  • Smith A.E.  The International Journal of Designed Objects. CGPublisher, http://ijgo.cgpublisher.com/product/pub.237/prod.62 30 Sep 2015 (Book) Publisher URL
  • Smith A.E. Harnessing the Haptic in Mass-Production Seamless Knitwear Technologies. The International Journal of Designed Objects 02 Nov 2015 (Journal article) Publisher URL
  • Joseph, F., Smith, M. & Kalyanji, J. (2014). New Dimensions in Knit Design. Proceedings of the 16th Annual IFFTI (International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes) Conference, Bunka Fashion College, Tokyo, Japan.
  • Joseph, F. and Kalyanji, J. (2014). Machine-Crafted: Investigating form and aesthetics in the seamless knit environment as a sustainable textile design practice. Proceedings of the Making Futures Conference, Plymouth College of Art, Plymouth, UK.
  • Moore, R.  (2014).  Changing the Face of Practice Based Knitwear Education.  International Journal of Teaching and Education, 3 (2), 447-453.  Retrieved from http://www.universitypublications.net/jte/0302/index.html
  • Moore, R.  (2014).  Changing the Face of Practice Based Knitwear Education.  International Journal of Arts and Sciences (IJAS).  International Conference at the Ca’ Foscari University, Venice, Italy.
  • Joseph, F. and Heslop, P. (2014)  ‘Advancing E-Textile Research and Development Capability through
    Cross-Disciplinary Collaboration’.  Proceedings of the 43rd Textile Research Symposium, Christchurch New Zealand, December 2014.
  • Joseph, F. and McMaster, S. (2014)  ‘Smart Knit Structures for Biomonitoring: Development of Knitted Sensor Circuits and More Precise Placement of Said Sensors’.  Proceedings of the 43rd Textile research Symposium, Christchurch, New Zealand, December 2014.
  • Smith, M. and Kalyanji, J. (2014).  Adding value through new approaches to 3D knitted preforms. 43rd Textile Research Symposium, Christchurch New Zealand, December 2014.
  • Moore, R. (2013).  Shima Seiki Knitting Machine – Setting up the knitting machine.
  • Joseph, F. (2013) Collaborative Making: Developing expressive e-textiles for dance.  Studies in Material Thinking, Vol 9. 2013. https://www.materialthinking.org/volumes/volume-09
  • Kalyanji, J. (2013). Machine-Crafted: 3 Dimensional Machine Knitted Forms. Master of Art and Design Exegesis. http://hdl.handle.net/10292/5668
  • Smitheram, M. (2013). The Superfluous and the Ephemeral: Consumerism, globalisation and future fashion systems (Master of Philosophy thesis, Auckland University of Technology, Auckland, New Zealand). http://hdl.handle.net/10292/5594
  • Smitheram, M. (2013). Digital Craft: A future for historic textiles? Context: dress/fashion/textiles. Issue 26, Winter 2013.
  • Moore, R. (2012). The Considerate Knitwear Toolbox: Increasing Designer Awareness of Available Environmentally Responsible Materials and Processes. (Postgraduate Dissertation) AUT University, Wellesley Campus, Auckland, New Zealand.
  • Reilly L. (2011).  A Wearable Technology Project.  Journal: Creative Technologies, 1 (1).  Retrieved from http://journal.colab.org.nz
  • Reilly L., Heslop P. and Fraser G. (2010).  A Wearable Technology Cross Disciplinary Research Partnership.  Proceedings of The Textile Institute World Conference.  Manchester, UK.
  • Joseph, F, Fraser A, and Cie C. (2010). Future Professionals: The teaching of digital textile design. Fashion: Sustainability and Creativity, Conference Proceedings, International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes 2010. Department of Textiles & Clothing, Human Ecology College, Fu Jen Catholic University, Taiwan Asia. 2010.
  • Cie C, and Joseph F. New Dimensions: Sustainability in digital design and print for textiles.. Proceedings of Sustainability in Design: Now, LeNS (Learning Network on Sustainability) Conference. 2010
  • Gover, A. 2010 Isomorphic Textiles: designing through technology in the medium of WholeGarment knitwear. Master of Art and Design Thesis. Auckland, AUT University, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/10292/1188
  • Gover, A. (2010). Report: Design and Market Research for Digitally Printed Merino Knitwear. TDL, Auckland.
  • Heslop P.  Creating new opportunities for merino apparel using digital printing technology.  Natural Fibres in Australasia: Proceedings of the Combined (NZ and AUS) Conference of The Textile Institute, Dunedin, New Zealand 15-17 April 2009.
    ISBN: 978-0-9598019-3-4
  • Joseph, F., Neimcyzk L. & Reilly L. (2008) Where We Fit:  Body Sizing and Standards from Industrial into Digital Context.  Proceedings of the IFFTI2008 Conference, RMIT. Melbourne.
  • Joseph, F., Rielly, L., Smith, M., and Heslop, P. (2007) The Textile and Design Laboratory: A New Zealand Textile Innovation Pilot Initiative. Paper published in Salonen, Ritta & Heikkila, Pirjo. The Proceeding of the AUTEX 2007 Conference, (CD) University of Tampere, Finland. ISBN 978- 952- 15- 1794- 5

Presentations

  • Smitheram, M. (2018). Unfolding: the hand of the cloth. (Film). Global Fashion Conference, London College of Fashion, London, United Kingdom.
  • Smitheram, M. (2018). Kotahi II, Digital design collaborations. Indigenous Stamina Forum, AUT University, Auckland.
  • Smitheram, M. (2018). Capturing the liminal: textile interfaces in physical-digital interaction. Designing Interactive Systems; SIGCHI ACM, Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong
  • Smitheram, M. (2018). Future matter and virtual surface: the hybrid materiality of motion-captured textile. Hybrid Labs Symposium, Aalto University, Espoo, Finland.
  • Smitheram, M., Joseph, F. (2018). Making With: Hybrid Practices in the development of new forms of intra-active dress. Hybrid Labs Symposium, Aalto University, Espoo, Finland.
  • Joseph, F., Smitheram, M. (2018). Addressing Place. Designa 2018, International Conference on Design Research, Covilhã, Portugal.
  • Moore, R., Smith, M., & Fraser, G. (2016). Too Soft with a Realistic Feel, Somewhere Series #9 // Halloween Special [Seamless knit garment]. Number 1 Cross Street, Auckland.
  • Moore R, Smith A. Stitching the Past to the Future. The End of Fashion Conference, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand.  Dec 2016
  • Moore R, Smith A, Fraser G. Dance Costume for performance: Soft with a Realistic Feel: in group show: 646nm, Bowerbank, Ninow, Auckland. 11 May 2016
  • Heslop P.  Invited presentation on the TDL’s Role in the Arts Sector at Blikfang Art Event, Auckland 15 April 2016.
  • Joseph. F. and Alexander C.  Radio interview about ‘E textiles and Smart Fabrics’ for Our Changing World on Radio National by Alison Balance.  Broadcast 7 April 2016.   http://www.radionz.co.nz/national/programmes/ourchangingworld/audio/201795811/e-textiles-and-smart-fabrics
  • Smitheram , M.  Fashion and Cubism – Auckland Art Gallery floor talk, 28th February 2016, Fashion in the City Event
  • Joseph, F. Smitheram, M. and Kalyanji, J. ‘Fluid Materialities: Physical and digital modes of textile making’.  Making Futures Conference at Plymouth University, UK 2015.
  • Lin X., Seet B-C, and Joseph F.  Fabric Antenna with Body Temperature Sensing for BAN Applications over 5G WirelessSystems.  9th International Conference on Sensing Technology (ICST), Auckland, December 2015.
  • Smart Textiles and Wearable Technologies symposium held at AUT October 2015.  Four presentations made by AUT researchers.
  • Anand, G., Kalra, A., Haala, O., Al-Hilali, Y., Lin, X., Lowe, A. and Al-Jumaily, A. Instrumentation for Multi-frequency Bioimpedance Analysis, Ambulatory ECG monitoring and Textile Sensing. Paper presented at the 2014 Robotics Automation and Sensing in NZ Symposium, University of Waikato
  • Smith A.E. Digital Crafting Network Panel. Making Futures 4 Conference, Plymouth, UK., 24 Sep 2015 – 25 Sep 2015.  Publisher URL
  • Smith A. (2015). Diabetic Sock Project. Oral presentation at Smart Textiles and Wearable Technologies Symposium, AUT University, Auckland, New Zealand.  14 October 2015.
  • Moore, R., Smith, A. and Fraser, G. (2015).  Dance Costume – Breath of Air (Rooftop I) (Knitted Seamless Textiles).  Auckland, New Zealand.
  • Moore, R., Smith, A, and Fraser, G. (2015).  Dance Costume – Antumbra Performance (Knitted Seamless Textiles). Peter Leavey Gallery, Wellington, New Zealand.
  • Moore, R., Smith, A. and Fraser, G. (2015).  Dance Costume – Breath of Air (Rooftop II) (Knitted Seamless Textiles). Auckland, New Zealand.
  • Moore, R., Smith, A. and Fraser, G. (2015).  Dance Costume – Breath of Air (Atrium) (Design). Auckland, New Zealand.
  • Moore, R., Smith, A. and Fraser, G. (2015).  Dance Costume – Still Breathing (knitted Seamless Textiles). Auckland, New Zealand.
  • Moore, R. and Smith, A. (12 – 19 November, 2015).  The Transference of Craft to Digital.  Wholegarment exhibit at Textile and Design Lab Stand, Research and Education Pavilion, ITMA, Milan, Italy.
  • Smith, A., and Moore, R. (2015).  The Transference of Craft to Digital Knowledge through the Medium of Knitted Textiles.  In M. Ferris (Ed.), Making Futures 4.  Plymouth College of Art, Plymouth, UK.
  • Smith, A., Moore, R. and Fraser, G. (2015).  Dance Costume (Knitted Seamless Textiles).  Oceanic Biennial 2015, Te Vara Nui, Raratinga, Cook Islands.
  • Smith, A.E. and Moore, R. (2015).  Translating the Traditional to the Digital.  In L. Newington (Ed.), In the Loop 4 Knitting: from Craft to Couture.  Glasgow University, Glasgow, UK.
  • Joseph, F. and Heslop, P. (2015)  ‘Developing Innovative Integrated Smart Textile Applications Through Cross-Disciplinary Collaboration’.  Paper presented at Speakers’ Platform, ITMA, Milan, Italy. November 2015.
  • Smith, M., Kalyanji, J. & Fraser, G. (2014). 3D Knitted Preforms and Collaborative Approaches to Making. Proceedings of the Transition: Re-thinking Textiles and Surfaces conference, University of Huddersfield, Huddersfield, UK.
  • Taylor, D and Joseph, F. (2014)  ‘SRIF e-Textiles for Physiotherapy project’.  E-Textiles symposium, AUT University, Auckland, November 2014.
  • Heslop, P. and Joseph, F. (2014) ‘Enabling Design and Business Innovation through New Textile Technologies’. Paper presented at Shapeshifting Conference, Auckland, NZ, April 2014.
  • Smitheram, M. (2014) ‘Remediation: Digital textile morphs’. Paper presented at Shapeshifting Conference, Auckland, NZ, April 2014.
  • Heslop, P. (2014) ‘Advances in Digital Textile printing’. Paper presented at The Society of Dyers and Colourists New Zealand, Napier, NZ, March 2014.
  • Moore, R. and Fraser, A. (2014).  Developing Digital Teaching Resources in Textile Design.  Poster, AUT University, Auckland, New Zealand.
  • McEwan, L., Moore, R., Brown, M., Jacobs, L. and Cleveland, D.  (2013).  Sustainable Fashion: The complexities, challenges and opportunities.  Auckland, New Zealand.
  • Moore, R. (2013). Increasing Practical Knitwear Learning through Digital Platforms.  Lerwick, Shetland Islands, UK.
  • Heslop P., Campbell J.R., Delamore P., and Shaw A. Panel presentation and discussion on Creating, Managing and Sustaining Research and Commercial Laboratories in Digital Fashion and Textiles: Digital Fashion Conference, London, UK, 16-17 May 2013.
  • Smitheram, M. (2013, March). ‘Digital Craft: A future for historic textiles’. Paper presented at the Costume and Textile Association of New Zealand Symposium, Government House, Auckland, New Zealand.
  • Fraser, A. and McLaren, P. (2012) ‘Patterns of Instruction: Using Screen casts in the Teaching of Textile Design’.  Paper presented at The Australasian Society for Computers in Learning in Tertiary Education Conference, Wellington. 25th – 28th November 2012.
  • Joseph F. Collaborative Making: The development of e-textiles for dance costumes. Presented at Making An International Conference on Materiality and Knowledge, Notodden, Norway, 24 Sep 2012 – 27 Sep 2012.
  • Evans-Mikellis, S. (2012) ‘Future forms: a methodological investigation for garment shape innovation in knitwear design’. Paper presented at In the Loop Knitting Conference, Southampton University, Winchester.  August 2012.
  • Fraser, A, (2012). ‘Digital Print Revolution: The Impact on Teaching Textile Design. Paper presented at The Innovations in Printed Textiles Symposium, AUT University. June 2012.
  • Heslop, P. and Joseph, F. (2012) ‘Textile and Design Lab Case Studies: Digital Print on Merino.’ Paper presented at The Innovations in Printed Textiles Symposium, AUT University, June 2012.
  • Reilly L.  A wearable technology cross disciplinary research partnership.  Paper presented at the Textile Institute Centenary World Conference, Manchester, UK.  Retrieved from http://www.texi.org
  • Joseph F, Fraser, A. and Cie C. Future Professionals: The teaching of digital textile design. Presented in Fashion: Sustainability and Creativity, International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes (IFFTI), Taipei, Taiwan. 24 – 25 March, 2010
  • Cie C, and Joseph F. New Dimensions: Sustainability in digital design and print for textiles. Presented in Sustainability in Design: Now, LeNS (Learning Network on Sustainability) Conference, Bangalore. 2010
  • Joseph, F. and Cie, C. Redistributed Thinking: Paradigmatic shifts in textile design technologies and methodologies. Presented at Cumulus 2009 Conference, Melbourne, 12 Nov 2009 – 14 Nov 2009.
  • Heslop P.  Creating new opportunities for merino apparel using digital printing technology.  Natural Fibres in Australasia:  Conference of The Textile Institute, University of Otago, Dunedin, 15-17 April 2009.
  • Reilly L. Where We Fit 2: Body Measuring and Modelling Technologies. AUT University, Auckland, December 2008.
  • Joseph F., Niemczyk L. and Reilly L.  Where we Fit: Paper presented at Where We Fit Body Measuring and Modelling Technologies for Fashion Forum, Auckland University,  December 2007.
  • Joseph F., Evans-Mikellis S. and Fraser A.  Going Digital: Innovation through new digital design, knit and print technologies. Paper presented at 2007 FINZ Fashion Educators Conference, Massey University, Wellington.
  • Wriesnik R. and Lawton, N. (2007) Status report (NZ) on current trends in print education at AUT, including the development of the Textile and Design Laboratory.  AAPT (Australasian Association of Printing Teachers) Conference, Sydney, May 2007.
  • Reilly, L. The Textile and Design Laboratory: A New Zealand Textile Innovation Pilot Initiative. Poster presentation at AUTEX 2007, Tampere Finland.

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Email: peter.heslop@aut.ac.nz

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